This Article is about the first technical learnings.

1. Fork Setup & Geometry

Unfortunately the OEM FOX 36 failed within the first two rides and is currently at FOX service (~5 weeks including shipping). An Air transfer issue was determined.
In the meantime, I tested a FOX 38 (170 mm) from my own stock, followed by another 36 (160 mm).

Interestingly, I actually prefer the 36.

It provides for a more balanced geometry. The 170 mm FOX 38 lifts the front noticeably – even after compensating with +0.5° and a lower BB. One can clearly feel that a 160 mm fork simply suits the bike better overall – but that is valid for our Innsbruck technical alpine riding – also known as Vertriding.

A 170 mm fork results in a slightly “stalky” ride characteristic.

The replacement 36 had a slightly too short cut steerer from back in the Days, which resulted in a lower cockpit than intended. Surprisingly, it works – especially in steep terrain and tight switchbacks, where the compact stack delivers very direct front-end control.

For fine-tuning until the original fork returns and to reduce strain on my neck and shoulders I’ve switched to a handlebar with 50 mm Rise.

2. Issues big and small

a) Upper 0° Standard Headset Cup Play

With correct headset preload, the original 0° upper headset cup (5) shows slight play under full load.
With the front brake applied, one can both feel and visually detect minimal forward movement of the standard 0° headset cup inside the head tube and see the Top Cover (1) move back and forth slightly. Hhm.

This definitely needs a proper solution.

Current workaround:
Using the +0.5° headset cup included in the accessory box solves the issue. Due to its integrated rectangular guiding block design at the Cup sleeve, it fits snugly into the frame and does not exhibit any movement.

I measured the cup insertion sleeve diameter on both the standard 0° headset cup and the alternative cups. The sleeve diameter is identical across all cups at least with the analog measure.

However, the completely round standard 0° headset cup tends to tilt slightly inside the carbon head tubes as it is not pressed in.

So obviously it does not provide sufficient friction or contact surface with the headtube, as it is not press-fit but simply placed (by Hand) into the head tube.

One can also clearly notice that the standard 0° cup can be easily placed into and removed from the head tube by hand.

In contrast, the alternative headset cups require significantly more force to install and can be removed by hand, but with a lot of effort and finger and nails twitching. Their rectangular guiding block extension increases surface contact and friction with the frame and ensures proper alignment along the frame’s central axis, effectively preventing any movement.

b) Power Extension Cable of the SRAM Derailleur

The Power Extension cable of the SRAM derailleur has relatively free movement where it exits the chainstay and is prone to getting caught by branches or similar obstacles.

A simple fix with a bit of Tesa duct tape works well.

A zip tie is not effective here, as the trapezoidal shape of the chainstay – especially where it meets the seatstay at the Horst link – causes the zip tie to slide toward the Horst link, where it doesn’t belong and get’s loose.

c) Dust and Dirt entering the Lower Headset / Crown Race Gap

The lower headset, bearing, and crown race are not very well protected against dust and dirt ingress. I really noticed this while changing the forks from the OEM 36, to 38 and to my old Aftermarket 36…

The Images show the Fork lowered a bit to show the Gap.

On many other bikes, there is typically a dust seal integrated at the crown race interface toward the frame and lower headset bearing. This is not the case on the PX (and also not on the PL).

d) Steerer Stop Block Replacement

For those who remove the standard steerer stop block which is required by Law in certain countries for accident prevention, a proper replacement part is currently missing. Since the Times of the early PL’s users are solving this with a 3D-printed part (Cults 3D Block Replacement). While this is a nice DIY workaround, a dedicated replacement part could ideally be included with the bike. As well as an AirTag Holder maybe 🙂 (Air Tag Holder FOX 36 AMFLOW PL)…

e) SRAM AXS Pod Controller – Ergonomics Limitation with Gustav Pro

The SRAM AXS Pod Controller itself is a well-designed unit, offering excellent ergonomics, intuitive “click and fire” operation, and full customization via the AXS app.

However, in combination with the Magura Gustav Pro brake, there is a notable limitation:

The clamp of the AXS Pod cannot be positioned far enough inward (to the left on the right-hand side of the bar), as it is physically blocked by both the shape of the Gustav Pro brake clamp and the reservoir of the radial brake lever.

As a result, the Pod sits slightly too far outward, causing the rider’s right thumb to repeatedly contact the controller during riding. This becomes noticeable and uncomfortable, especially on longer or more technical descents.

This is clearly a compatibility issue between the two components rather than a flaw of the Pod itself.

f) Chainstay Protector – Functional but Overbuilt Edge

The chainstay protector itself is well designed in terms of coverage and protection. However, due to its material thickness, it adds noticeable bulk to the chainstay and features a relatively high, pronounced outer edge.

When repositioning the rear wheel during tight switchback riding I give the chainstay a quick impulse with my left or right feet instead of rotating the bike with the hips – I noticed that it is quite easy to catch the left shoe on that edge when I du left hand switchbacks.

This can be slightly disruptive in technical terrain and tight maneuvers.

Additionally, I have some concerns that the protector could lose adhesion over time in this specific area, as the exposed edge is likely subjected to repeated mechanical contact and stress. So I will apply the best solution there is: the 3M Scotch Rubber Mastix Electric Tape 2228, 5,1 cm x 3 m, black, which is a self sealing tape for Isolation and Seals, which softens that sharp edge a bit.

g) Front Hub Seal – Loose Fit (Left Side, Direction of Travel)

The sealing ring of the front hub on the left side (in direction of travel), located above the hub bearing, tends to come loose repeatedly.

During wheel removal and installation, it can easily shift out of position, which raises concerns about it potentially being lost over time.

This should ideally have a more secure fit to ensure proper sealing and long-term reliability.

h) Rear Hub Freehub Standard – Shimano HG vs. SRAM XD Compatibility / 4-Pawl vs 6-Pawl long term durability

The rear hub is equipped with a Shimano HG-style freehub body (4-pawl system).

The bike comes with a SRAM XS-1270 Eagle Transmission cassette (10–52T), which is specifically designed to be compatible with traditional splined freehub bodies (Shimano HG-style freehub body Standard).

According to SRAM specifications, the XS-1270 cassette fits:

• directly on standard 8/9/10-speed HG freehub bodies
• on 11-speed HG bodies with an additional 1.85 mm spacer
• https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/26988415305243-What-driver-body-is-the-XS-1270-Eagle-Transmission-cassette-compatible-with

The stock wheelsets (XMA-30 mullet version) use the following configuration:

• 12 × 148 mm rear hub
• 32H
• 4 pawls / 36T engagement
• HG freehub body

Unfortunately, the XMA-30 only features a 4-pawl system, whereas the PX Pro’s XMC-30 version comes with a 6-pawl hub.

As a result, the stock setup on the Amflow PX and PR does not support SRAM XD-compatible Transmission cassettes. Switching to an XD-based cassette therefore requires replacing the freehub body (if available) or the complete rear hub/wheel. Guys, thanks for nothing!

More critically, the reduced pawl count results in less direct engagement and raises valid concerns regarding long-term durability. Given the torque characteristics of the M2S motor (up to 150 Nm), a more robust engagement system would be expected. A 4-pawl setup appears underbuilt for this application, especially under repeated high-load conditions typical for alpine riding.

This is not just theoretical – in technical terrain, the slower engagement vs the PL Pro Rear Wheel is noticeable, and from a mechanical perspective, higher load per pawl will accelerate wear over time, and we are talking about 150 NM max. + Rider input.

See: AMFLOW PX Tech Specs

i) Flip Chip Orientation – Reduced Clarity on PX vs. PL

On the previous PL model, the flip chip orientation for 27.5” vs. 29” was clearly visible and intuitive.

On the PX, this has become less obvious due to the new flip chip plate design. The geometry and shape of the plate make it difficult to immediately identify the correct orientation.

The small engraved pictograms provide some guidance, but in practice they are not sufficiently clear or intuitive.

As a result, determining the correct setting requires closer inspection than it should, especially in workshop or trail-side conditions.

Adding to the confusion, the accessory box appears to include replacement flip chips intended for the PR model, which are not relevant for the PX setup. Please correct me if I’m wrong…

j) Avinox Spider Lockring Tool – Lack of Axle Retention

The Avinox lockring tool for the spider lockring lacks any form of retention or guidance on the crank axle.

Unlike well-designed solutions such as the Cyclus tool for Bosch Gen4 lockrings, which is securely threaded onto the crank axle first and then bump proof Spring Locked, the Avinox tool is not fixed in place during use.

With the Cyclus system, the tool is screwed into the crank axle thread, creating a solid and centered interface. It is then guided onto the lockring via a snap-in mechanism. This ensures perfect alignment and allows safe one-handed operation without any risk of slipping.

In contrast, the Avinox tool relies purely on manual positioning and pressure probably by your Body leaning on it from the side. Especially when operated one-handed, there is a constant risk of the tool slipping off the lockring.

This is particularly critical given that:

• the required torque is relatively high (~20 Nm)
• the lockring is made of aluminum rather than steel

A slip under these conditions can easily damage the lockring.

From a mechanical and usability perspective, this is a clear design weakness. A guided, axle-supported tool interface – similar to the Cyclus Tools solution – would significantly improve safety, handling, and reliability during installation and removal.

k) Lower Headset O-Ring – Seal Damage and Insufficient Retention

The lower headset assembly consists of the bearing (9), the lower headset cup (8), and the lower bearing seal (7).

In practice, the seal (7) is not a properly retained sealing element but rather a very thin O-ring that is simply rolled onto or loosely placed over the lower headset cup (8).

The complete assembly (9 → 8 → 7) is then inserted into the head tube from below.

During installation, the O-ring frequently shifts out of position, rolls off, or can even be damaged. It lacks any defined seat or retention feature and does not stay securely in place.

The fit is noticeably loose, and the sealing concept appears under-engineered for a component that is directly exposed to water, dust, and contamination from the front wheel.

From a mechanical and serviceability standpoint, this solution is inadequate. A properly guided and tensioned seal – ideally integrated into the headset cup or designed with a defined groove and interference fit – would significantly improve reliability, sealing performance, and ease of installation.

We found a better retenting O-Ring which fits in a Bosch Gen4 Box in the Bike Bow Workshop, see Image 2, the smaller one on the left side of the broken original one.

l) Chainring Size vs. Chainstay Clearance

When running a 32T front chainring, the chain passes extremely close to the chainstay protector when in the smallest rear cog (10T on the 10–52 cassette).

With a 34T chainring, the clearance improves slightly but remains tight.

This should be taken into consideration, as the minimal clearance could lead to contact under load, flex, or contamination (mud/debris), especially in real-world riding conditions.

BTW at first with the 32T Chainring, the Transmission Chain seems to pass by the Spider super duper close. But it works without any Problems.

PS:  Why do we run 32T front on eMTBs in Tyrol? Because we ride the steepest, gnarliest, most technical stuff Uphills worldwide. from 30%-50%+ trails.

So basically, we run 32T front for a reason, no Joke. But I can understand you wondering if you come from the Netherlands 🙂

3. Drivetrain efficiency Adjustment

After the first steep uphill ride, I immediately swapped the front SRAM Avinox Direct Mount chainring from 38T to 34T, and more recently to 32T.

The 38T clearly hurts efficiency and range (approx. -30% in my use case). For alpine riding, a smaller chainring – such as 32T – is the only logical choice.

4. Gustav Pro Brake Performance Upgrade

The Magura Gustav Pro required an upgrade. The 203 mm MDR-S rotor was for me not powerful enough, so I moved to a 220 mm MDR-P setup, which is officially supported by Magura.

Current upgrade path:

• Pads: MDP 13 BLACK → SILVER (+15% bite) or YELLOW (more power)
• Rotor size: 203 → 220 mm
• Rotor type: MDR-P 220 mm (2.0 mm, plug & play)
• Future: MDR-S 220 mm (2.5 mm) for improved heat management and more precise braking while maintaining good modulation

5. Seatpost

Next change will be the seatpost – likely FOX Transfer 200 or OneUp. The Original Seatpost moves a bit slowly and also needs Lubrication.

I need maximum drop for very steep terrain with large root step-downs. The OEM post still has a bit too much stack while it is an improvement to the 2025 PL’s stock seatpost.

In our riding terrain, even a 10 mm lower saddle height makes a noticeable difference.

Also: Big thanks for the short seat tubes on the PL and PR – this is highly appreciated in the Alpine rider community!!

6. Chainstay Setting

I set the chainstay to maximum length (with 27.5″ rear), which noticeably improves climbing performance!

7. Battery & System Performance

With the 700 Wh battery:

• ~10–15% less total elevation capacity compared to the PL
• Battery runs ~5°C cooler
• Motor also slightly cooler and extremely quiet
• 32T front helps to have the M2S on optimum efficiency on steeper climbs

8. Wanted! Compact Range Extender – VoC!!

Avinox please listen: For the upcoming big mountain season (September/October), my biggest wish to Avinox is a 250–300 Wh bottle-style range extender, ideally backpack-compatible.

Form factor similar to:

• Bosch 250 Wh PowerMore
• Specialized range extender

An ideal PX Range Extender solution would include:

• Bottle-style RE (250–300 Wh)
• Simultaneous use of main battery + RE
• Hot-swap capability (replace depleted RE mid-ride)

The current RS 600 Wh strap-on solution is:

• Too bulky
• Awkward
• Not compatible with size L PX
• RS 600 will feel heavy in the Backpack

a) Real-World Reference Setup (Simplon Rapcon CX)

For the Bike Test see here: One Bike – Three different Motors – E-Mountainbike Magazine

Previously over 400.000 HM and 6500 km, I used a very flexible system on my Simplon Rapcon CX which is now my Touring bike 🙂

• Swappable main battery: 750 Wh or 500 Wh
• 250 Wh Bosch PowerMore on the frame
• plus 250 Wh Bosch PowerMore in the backpack for the super Gnarly +2500 HM ascent rides

The 250 Wh unit (~1.4 kg) was perfectly acceptable in my backpack, it is small and weighs around 1.45 kgs. Barely noticeable.

This allowed:

• On-the-fly swapping of the downtube RE with a fresh one from the backpack
• Ideal flexibility for long alpine rides

Typical configurations:

• 750 + 250 + 250 Wh
• 500 + 250 + 250 Wh

The 1250 Wh setup worked perfectly for:

• 2500–3000 m elevation days (Dolomites, Ticino)
• No charging required during the day

b) Light eMTB Reference (TQ System)

On my Simplon Rapcon TQ:

• 320 Wh internal
• 160 Wh range extender
• Total bike weight: 19.3 kg

The RE was integrated via a Fidlock interface (developed together with Fidlock Germany) and worked extremely well.

9. Conclusion

Overall: The AMFLOW PX is an outstanding bike and a clear step forward compared to the already strong PL Series.

Congratulations to the AMFLOW and Avinox Team, they built and designed an outstanding Alpine Bike!

This Bike is another Game Changer, like the PL Series was. And we are not even talking about the PR Series!

The only one Topic where I think DJI has not yet understood what we want is the Range Extender solution. Volabike etc show what we want.

Since: Seriously? Routing the Cable BEHIND the Seattube to the Tire????

Why would I want to ride around with such a DIY solution? Come on Avinox, that can be done professionally – see my PowerMore or TQ examples above.

Image from Video by Toffer

More Details & Impressions coming soon…

Cheers

Christoph Malin

First documented PSC’s sighting above Switzerland and Italy, December 22^nd, 2023

Main Cloud “Bowl”Structure similar to a famous Lenticularis Display in 2017 at similar location due to Lago Maggiore Topography.

For all Images for the Scientific Community to Download see: https://www.picdrop.com/christophmalin/FHaoD1EKaE

—————

———

Dear Christoph,

Happy New Year!

Great polar stratospheric cloud (PSC) photos!  This is very unusual.

PSCs typically form at temperatures < 195K (-78 C) for *normal* stratospheric (> 16 km altitude) conditions in this year. First, the Hunga volcanic eruption in January 2022 has led to strange conditions in the stratosphere.  The eruption significantly increased the amount of water in the usually very dry stratosphere. Hence, because of more water, the PSCs are probably forming at slightly higher temperatures (196-197 K). Second, the stratospheric weather conditions were odd, pushing cold temperatures over Europe for that day (see: https://acd-ext.gsfc.nasa.gov//Data_services/Current/arctic/plots/T_2023122200_A_50.png). This plot shows the flow field and temperatures at 0 GMT on Dec. 22 on the 50 hPa (~20 km altitude) surface.  As you can see, temperatures were 196-200K over Northern Italy on that day. Third, the flow field from the troposphere to the lower stratosphere was aligned to force atmospheric waves (known as gravity waves in the atmospheric community) that propagated into the stratosphere.  These waves caused localized swings of the broad scale temperature field below the PSC formation temperature. The structural appearance of the PSCs reflects these localized swings.

PSCs are important because they activate stratospheric chlorine trace gases from benign forms (HCl and ClONO2) to forms that can rapidly deplete ozone (Cl2 and ClO).

Peace to all, Paul

Dr. Paul A. Newman
Chief Scientist for Earth Sciences, NASA GSFC
http://acd-ext.gsfc.nasa.gov/People/Newman/

“Give peace a chance.” – J. Lennon

———–
My further Question to Dr. Newman was: „As you can see that prominent „Bowl“ Structure from 2017 at the Lenticularis, kind of starting to form again in 2023 at the Dawn Images at a similar Area… is it even possible that the Topography of the Valleys below influence the forming at such high altitudes? So you say the the alignment of the flow field from the troposphere to the lower stratosphere forced these atmospheric waves.“

Answer by Dr. Newman:

„Gravity waves propagate upward, but also propagate horizontally. The detailed vertical wind profiles and *regional* topography are both necessary to model the temperature perturbations. In your picture, the vertical stacking can be seen reveailing the vertical wave structure. The waves are forced by the flow over the topography, just like strong stream flow over a rock in a river. It’s typically very hard to pinpoint the topographical source, since these waves can propagate large horizontal distances.“

Bären Know-How (Deutsch)

Es kann aufregend sein, einen Bären zu sehen, und die Beobachtung der Tierwelt könnte einer der Gründe sein, warum Sie sich entschieden haben, in die Wildnis zu gehen. Um Ihre und die eigene Sicherheit zu gewährleisten, sollten Sie jedoch die Richtlinien zur sicheren Bärenbeobachtung befolgen. Wenn Sie vermeiden möchten, Bären zu sehen, können Sie auch Maßnahmen ergreifen, um das Risiko zu verringern, versehentlich einem Bären zu begegnen.

Bärenangriffe sind selten, kommen aber vor. Die größere Gefahr geht jedoch vom menschlichen Verhalten aus. Bären, die ihre Angst vor Menschen verlieren, haben eine kürzere Lebenserwartung als Bären, die Angst vor Menschen haben und sich nur von ihrer natürlichen Nahrung ernähren.

Richtlinien zur Bärenbeobachtung

Wenn Sie Bären in Nationalparks oder anderen Wildnisgebieten sehen möchten, suchen Sie am besten dort, wo sie Nahrung finden. Im Frühling findet man sie möglicherweise auf Wiesen, wo sie Wurzeln und Gräser ausgraben. Im Herbst sind sie vielleicht zwischen Eichen und fressen Eicheln. Wenn Sie einen Bären entdecken, sollten Sie Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen, denn wie alle Wildtiere können sie gefährlich und unberechenbar sein.

Sie sind in ihrem Zuhause. Beachten Sie daher die folgende Etikette, wenn Sie sie beobachten:

• Verwenden Sie ein Fernglas, damit Sie sie sehen können, ohne zu nahe zu kommen.
• Nähern Sie sich niemals einem Bären. Wenn ein Bär weiß, dass Du da bist, bist Du zu nah.
• Verlassen Sie nicht die markierten Wege, wenn Sie sich auf einem befinden.
• Lassen Sie Bärenbabys in Ruhe. Die Mutter ist in der Nähe. Stellen Sie sich niemals zwischen eine Bärenmutter und ihre Jungen.
• Bringen Sie Ihre Haustiere nicht in Gebiete, in denen Bären leben.
• Geben Sie einem Bären Raum, um an Ihnen vorbeizukommen, aber laufen Sie niemals vor ihm davon.
• Füttern Sie die Bären nicht und lassen Sie Ihr Essen nicht liegen, damit sie es finden können.

Bärenbegegnungen vermeiden

Wenn Sie lieber keinen Bären sehen möchten, haben Sie Glück. Die meisten Bären meiden Menschen, wenn sie wissen, dass Menschen in der Nähe sind. 

Wenn Sie wandern oder campen, machen Sie einfach Lärm. Sprechen Sie mit Ihren Begleitern und achten Sie auf Ihr Umfeld. Versuchen Sie, auf sich aufmerksam zu machen, wenn Sie sich in einer Umgebung befinden, in der es bekanntermaßen Bären gibt, oder wenn Sie sich in einer Gegend befinden, deren Ressourcen eine gute Nahrungsquelle für Bären darstellt.

Was tun, wenn Sie einen Bären sehen oder überraschen?

Wenn ein Bär Sie bemerkt hat und auf Sie achtet, gehen Sie wie folgt vor, um die Situation zu entschärfen:

• Laufen Sie nicht weg, da der Bär sonst glauben könnte, Sie seien Beute.
• Bewahren Sie Ruhe, in Panik auszubrechen ist kontraproduktiv.
• Sammeln Sie Ihre Gruppe, holen Sie alle kleinen Kinder zu sich.
• Sprechen Sie ruhig mit dem Bären, damit er weiß, dass Sie ein Mensch sind.
• Gehen Sie langsam zurück
• Vermeiden Sie Augenkontakt – der Bär kann das als aggressives oder herausforderndes Verhalten ansehen.
• Wenn der Bär sich Ihnen nähert, machen Sie sich so groß wie möglich, indem Sie die Arme über den Kopf strecken und laute Geräusche machen.
• Tragen Sie Bärenspray bei sich und machen Sie sich mit der Anwendung vertraut. Wenn ein Bär auf Sie zustürmt, schrecken Sie ihn mit dem Bärenspray ab. Versuchen Sie nicht, auf einen Baum zu klettern. Man kann einem Bären nicht davonlaufen oder davonklettern.

Bärenfakten

In Nordamerika leben drei Bärenarten, darunter Schwarzbären, Braunbären und Grizzlybären (die zur selben Art gehören) sowie Eisbären. Am häufigsten kommen Schwarzbären vor, die in den gesamten USA weit verbreitet sind.

Braunbären leben hauptsächlich an der Südküste Alaskas. Das sind die Bären, die man in Flüssen stehen sieht, die Lachse fangen. Grizzlybären sind kleiner als Braunbären und leben im Norden und im Landesinneren Alaskas sowie in den nördlichen Cascades und Rocky Mountains.

Bärenangriffe

Jede Begegnung ist anders. Bären zeigen in verschiedenen Situationen unterschiedliche Verhaltensweisen, und das Verständnis des Verhaltens des Bären kann über Leben und Tod entscheiden.

Obwohl der englische Bärenreim „If it’s brown, lay down. If it’s black, fight back. If it’s white, goodnight“, nach einem guten Rat klingt, müssen Sie wissen, warum ein Bär Sie angreift, bevor Sie entscheiden können, wie Sie am besten reagieren.

Wenn ein Bär auf Sie losläuft, hat das normalerweise zwei Gründe:

1. Der Bär blufft / Scheinangriff
   Bluffs sind die häufigste Art von vorgetäuschten Angriffen beim Bär. Ein Bär macht einen Scheinangriff, wenn er versucht, Sie zu erschrecken oder einzuschüchtern. Sein Kopf und seine Ohren zeigen nach vorne und sind oben. Der Bär bläht sich auf und sieht größer aus. Er bewegt sich mit seinen Vorderpfoten in großen Sprüngen auf Sie zu, bleibt aber im letzten Moment stehen oder dreht ab. Er kann danach laute Geräusche machen.Wenn Sie glauben, dass ein Scheinangriff bevorsteht, machen Sie sich groß, winken Sie mit den Armen und sprechen Sie ruhig mit dem Bären. Wenn der Bär angreift, bleiben Sie standhaft und ruhig. Wenn der Bär mit dem scheinbaren Angriff fertig ist, gehen Sie langsam zurück und sprechen Sie ruhig mit dem Bären. Sie möchten ihm zeigen, dass Sie ein Mensch sind.Laufen Sie niemals weg, wenn ein Bär blufft, da dies einen Angriff auslösen könnte. Sie sollten jedoch darauf vorbereitet sein, sich zu verteidigen, falls der Angriff kein Bluff ist und der Bär aggressiv wird.
2. Der Bär greift aggressiv an
   Ein aggressiv angreifender Bär ist lebensgefährlich. Zu den Anzeichen eines kurz bevorstehenden aggressiven Angriffs gehören:
   -> Mit den Vorderpfoten auf den Boden schlagen
   -> Schnaufen
   -> Gähnen, oder Klappern mit den Zähnen
   -> Kopf gesenkt und Ohren nach hinten gerichtet
   -> Mit voller Geschwindigkeit direkt auf Sie zulaufen

Wenn Sie diese Anzeichen sehen, ist der Bär gestresst, und er ist vielleicht schon bereit anzugreifen. Der Bär wird den Kopf gesenkt und die Ohren nach hinten gerichtet haben, und wird wie ein Güterzug auf Sie zukommen. Bereiten Sie sich darauf vor, sich zu verteidigen. Hier hat der Bärenreim seine Berechtigung.

Wenn ein Schwarzbär Sie angreift, wehren Sie sich. Stellen Sie sich nicht tot. Schlagen und treten Sie dem Bären ins Gesicht. Verwenden Sie Waffen wie Steine, Stöcke oder Bärenspray.

Wenn Sie ein Braunbär angreift, stellen Sie sich tot. Schlagen Sie nicht zurück, da dies den Angriff verschlimmert. Bedecken Sie Ihren Kopf mit Ihren Händen und lassen Sie Ihren Rucksack an, um sich zu schützen. 

Legen Sie sich mit gespreizten Beinen flach auf den Bauch und schützen Sie Ihren Kopf. 

So schwierig es auch sein mag: Machen Sie keinen Lärm und bleiben Sie so ruhig wie möglich. Sie möchten den Bären davon überzeugen, dass Sie keine Bedrohung für ihn oder seine Jungen darstellen. Wenn der Bär aufhört, Sie anzugreifen, bleiben Sie noch einige Minuten still liegen, für den Fall, dass er sich noch in der Nähe befindet. 

Bewegen Sie sich nicht, bis Sie sicher sind, dass der Bär verschwunden ist.

Wenn der Bär Sie weiterhin angreift, haben Sie möglicherweise keine andere Wahl, als sich zu wehren. Wenn Sie kämpfen müssen, kämpfen Sie so hart wie möglich mit allem was Sie haben, mit allen Waffen, die Sie finden können. Es geht um Ihr Leben.

Im Gegensatz zu Braun- und Schwarzbären bluffen Eisbären selten vor. Wenn ein Eisbär Sie angreift, seien Sie bereit, sich zu verteidigen und ihn abzuwehren. Versuchen Sie, den Bär auf empfindliche Bereiche wie Gesicht, Augen und Nase zu treffen.

Raubbären

Raubbären unterscheiden sich stark von überraschten oder defensiven Bären. Wenn Sie einem Bären begegnen, der neugierig ist oder Sie wie ein Raubtier verfolgt, seien Sie zum Kampf bereit.

Rennen Sie nicht. Pirschende und neugierige Bären sind nicht so defensiv eingestellt wie überraschte Bären. Sie sind jederzeit bereit, ihre Beute anzugreifen, und SIE sind die Beute. Versuchen Sie, wenn möglich, Schutz in einem Auto oder Gebäude zu suchen. Wenn das keine Option ist, seien Sie bereit zu kämpfen.

Wenn Sie bemerken, dass ein Bär Sie verfolgt, ist es jetzt an der Zeit, Ihr Bärenspray hervorzuholen. Wenn der Bär Sie angreift, wehren Sie sich mit allem, was Sie haben. Verwenden Sie jede verfügbare Waffe, um den Bären zu bekämpfen (Stöcke, Steine, Bärenspray, sogar Ihre Fäuste). Wenn ein räuberischer Bär Sie angreift, egal welcher Art, wehren Sie sich mit allen Mitteln, die Sie haben.

**********

Bear Know-How (English)

Seeing a bear can be exciting, and watching the wildlife may be one of the reasons you are out in the Wilderness. 

You should however follow guidelines for safely viewing bears, though, to protect your safety and theirs. If you want to avoid seeing bears, there are also steps you can take to decrease your chances of accidentally running into one. 

Bear attacks are rare, but they do happen. However, the bigger danger is to posed the bear, stemming from human behavior. Bears who lose their fear of humans have a shorter life expectancy than bears who are afraid of humans and eat only their natural diet.

Bear Viewing Guidelines

If you want to see bears in national parks or other wilderness areas, the best place to look is where they can find food. In the spring, you may find them in meadows digging up roots and grasses. In the fall, they might be among oak trees eating acorns. When you spot one, you should take precautions because, like all wild animals, they can be dangerous and unpredictable.

You’re in their home, so observe the following etiquette when you’re watching them:

• Use binoculars so you can see them without getting too close.
• Never approach a bear. If they know you’re there, you’re too close.
• Don’t wander off marked trails if you’re on one.
• Leave baby bears alone. The mother is nearby. Never get between a mother and her cubs.
• Don’t bring your pets to areas where bears live.
• Give a bear room to pass you, but never run from them.
• Don’t feed the bears or leave your food out for them to find.

Avoiding Bear Encounters

If you’d rather not see a bear, you’re in luck. Most bears will avoid you if they know you’re around. If you’re out climbing, hiking, biking or camping, just make noise. Talk to your companions and pay attention to your environment. Try to make yourself noticeable if you’re in an environment where bears are known to be or if you’re in an area that’s a good food source for them.

What to Do if You see or surprise a Bear

If a bear has noticed you and is paying attention to you, do the following to de-escalate the situation:

• Do not run away, since this can make the bear think you’re prey.
• Stay calm.
• Gather your group together and pick up any small children.
• Talk to the bear calmly so it knows you’re human.
• Back away slowly.
• If the bear starts to approach you, make yourself as big as possible by stretching your arms over your head and make loud noises.
• Keep bear spray with you and know how to use it. If a bear charges toward you, use the bear spray to deter it.

Bear Facts

There are three species of bears that live in North America, including black bears, brown bears and grizzly bears (which are the same species), and polar bears. Black bears are the most common and are found widely throughout the US.

Brown bears mostly live along the southern coast of Alaska. These are the bears you see standing in rivers catching salmon. Grizzly bears are smaller than brown bears and live in the northern and interior parts of Alaska as well as in the northern Cascades and Rocky Mountains.

Bear Attacks

Although the bear safety rhyme “If it’s brown, lay down. If it’s black, fight back. If it’s white, goodnight” sounds like good advice, you have to know why a bear is attacking you before you can decide the best way to respond.

When a bear is charging at you, it’s usually for one of two reasons:

Bluff charging. Bluff charges are the most common type of charges. A bear will bluff charge when it’s trying to scare or intimidate you. Its head and ears will be facing forward and will be up. It will puff itself up to look bigger. It will move in big, bounding leaps toward you but will stop short or veer off at the last minute. It may make loud noises afterward.

If you think a bluff charge is about to happen, make yourself big, wave your arms, and talk calmly to the bear. When the bear starts charging, stand your ground and stay calm. When the bear finishes charging, back away slowly while talking to the bear calmly. You want to let it know that you’re human.

Never run away when a bear is bluff charging since it may trigger an attack. However, you should be prepared to defend yourself in case the attack isn’t a bluff and the bear turns aggressive.

Aggressive charging. A bear who is aggressively charging is very dangerous. Signs of an impending aggressive charge include:

• Pounding front paws on the ground
• Huffing
• Yawning or clacking their teeth
• Head down and ears pointed back
• Running straight at you, full-speed

If you see these signs, prepare to defend yourself. This is where the bear safety rhyme has some merit. If a black bear attacks you, fight back. Don’t play dead. Punch and kick at the bear’s face. Use weapons such as rocks, sticks, or bear spray.

If a brown bear attacks you, play dead. Don’t fight back since that will make the attack worse. Cover your head with your hands and leave your backpack on to help protect yourself. 

Lie down flat on your stomach with your legs outspread and protect your head. As difficult as it may be, don’t make any noise and be as still as possible. You want to convince the bear you’re not a threat to it or its cubs.

If the bear quits attacking you, continue to lie still for several minutes in case it’s still in the area. Don’t move until you’re sure the bear is gone.

If the bear continues to attack you, you may have no choice but to fight back. If you have to fight, fight it as hard as you can with any weapons you can find.

Unlike brown and black bears, polar bears rarely bluff charge. If a polar bear is charging you, be ready to defend yourself and fight it off. Try to hit it in any sensitive areas such as the face, eyes, and nose.

Predatory Bears

Predatory bears are very different than surprised or defensive bears. If you encounter a bear that’s curious or stalks you like a predator, be ready to fight. Do NOT run.

Stalking and curious bears are not in a defensive mindset like a surprised bear. They are ready to attack their prey at a moment’s notice, and YOU are the prey. Try to seek shelter in a car or building if possible. If that isn’t an option, be ready to fight.

If you notice a bear stalking you, now is the time to get your bear spray ready. If the bear attacks you, fight back with anything that you have. Use any available weapon to fight the bear (sticks, rocks, bear spray, even your fists).

If a predatory bear attacks you, no matter the species, fight back with everything you have.

Quelle: https://www.nps.gov/articles/bearattacks.htm

https://www.nps.gov/articles/bearsprayfirearms.htm

Als Teammanager des Simplon eMTB Factory Teams, eMTB Fachjournalist und Factory Prototypen Tester habe ich bei der Entwicklung des Rapcon Pmax MK1 von Anfang an mitgearbeitet und konnte meine langjährige Werksfahrer Erfahrung für legendäre Marken wie Liteville (601, 901, 301) und Gründer der Innsbrucker Vertrider einbringen. So wurde eines der allerbesten Alpin e-Enduros der Welt, das Simplon Rapcon Pmax Realität.

Bilder: Simplon Rapcon Pmax Testbikes & Prototypen

Das Rapcon Pmax MK1 hat in verschiedenen Ausstattungsvarianten und Rahmengrössen über 1/2 Mio. Höhenmeter Testfahrten seit den ersten Prototypen 2019 absolviert, und sich bestens bewährt.

Simplon Pmax mit Bosch Dual Battery (BDB)

Features:

• Superstabile, leise NewMen Laufräder die vor allem nicht eindellen, extrem durchschlagresistent
• Starkes, komfortables RockShox Fahrwerk
• kräftige Magura MT5 Bremsen für Alpineinsätze
• Rahmenakku wird durch Hohlkammer innenbelüftet
• das Rad ist Bosch Dual Battery Ready und kann mit einem optionalen 500 Wh Akku am Unterrohr auf 1125 Wh erweitert werden, bei optimal tiefem Schwerpunkt
• Doppellager an allen Lagerpunkten
• Geometrie per FlipChip anpassbar (High für 27.5“/Low für 29#“ Hinterrad)
• Sauber Innenverlegte Züge
• die SRAM GX AXS ist die derzeit beste elektronische Schaltung, extrem widerstandsfähig mit Schlagkupplung
• extrem breiter Einsatzbereich des Bikes von Uphillflow über schnelle Abfahrten bis supertechnische Trails
• leichter Vollcarbon Rahmen
• Designed und Engineered in Hard/Austria 

Bosch Dual Battery: 625 Wh + 500 Wh = 1125 Wh

Absolut bewährt hat sich das Bosch Dual Battery System des Pmax MK1, das aus dem Bike ein Langstrecken e-Enduro par excellence macht.

Fotos: Dual Battery Beispielfotos und Test eMTB Magazin

 

• auch 2023 Top Modern, da Bosch für SmartSystem erst 2024 Dual Battery liefern kann
• kein RangeExtender System, sondern softwareseitig vollintegrierte 2-Akku Lösung mit Dual Battery Anzeige am Kiox und Batterie Management
• entwickelt für Schwerlast Cargo Bereich, macht aber auch an Langstrecken/BigMountain Bikes wie dem Pmax absolut Sinn
• niedrigmöglichster Schwerpunkt, sehr gutes Handling trotz Doppelakku
• Bosch Performance CX ist im BDB Betrieb noch einmal spürbar kraftvoller & länger auf höherer Leistung, da bei Dual Battery die Voltzahl deutlich später durch das BMS reduziert wird (ca. ab 30% Restkapazität) als im Single Batterie Betrieb wo sie teilweise ab ca 50% Restkapazität schon langsam reduziert wird um den Akku zu schonen (ist aber auch temperaturabhängig)
• Spezialisten haben im Eco/Tour Mischbetrieb mit Dual Battery Pmaxen schon 100 km und 4500 HM und mehr geschafft, und das auch auf Touren mit hohem Trailanteil wohlgemerkt
• Transport eines 2. Akkus im Rucksack auf langen Touren nicht notwendig, Rücken wird entlastet und die Fahrsicherheit deutlich erhöht sowie Ermüdung vorgebeugt
• Weiterer Vorteil von BDB ist die deutlich geringere Erwärmung der Akkus im BDB Betrieb als im Singleakku Betrieb bei hoher Last, speziell im Hochsommer bei Hitzewelle durchaus ein Vorteil
• Unterrohr beim Pmax ist Hohlkammer-innenbelüftet für eine bessere Kühlung des Akkus
• Wird das Bosch Dual Battery System am Pmax nur mit dem internen Akku gefahren, lässt sich der eigens von Simplon entwickelte und gefertigte Dummy Flaschenhalter einklicken, mit dem anstatt des 500 Wh Akkus eine Wasserflasche verwendet werden kann

Die technischen Daten sind weiters wie folgt:

• 160 mm Federweg hinten, 170 mm vorne, hochwertiges RockShox Fahrwerk
• 150 mm Kindshock Stütze, mit Schnellspanner, Stütze ist komplett im Sitzrohr ablenkbar und kann auch weiter aus dem Sitzrohr gezogen werden (Sattelstützen Kabel ist leicht nachführbar)
• Leichter Carbon Rahmen mit verstellbarer Geometrie (für 27.5“/29“ oder 29“/29“)
  und Doppellagerung an allen Lagerstellen
• Innenbelüftung des Akkus im Unterrohr durch Hohlkammer System und Belüftungsports am Steuerrohr
• Langstreckentaugliche, ermüdungsfreie Geometrie dank SQlab Lenker, Vorbau und Sattel
• Ausgezeichnetes Fahrwerk und Handling
• Kräftige Magura MT5 Bremsen 203mm/220mm
• Elektronische SRAM AXS Schaltung mit 11-52/32T auch für steile Uphills
• 27.5/29″ NEWMEN SG.35 hinten, SG.30 vorne, Fade Mullet Laufradsatz
• Bosch Kiox für Navigation und fein aufgelöster Akkustandsanzeige

Bosch Kiox Navigation:

Bosch Akkustands-Anzeige Dual Battery

Im Lieferumfang (normalerweise): 

• 6A Schnellladegerät
• Ladegerät AXS
• 625 Wh Bosch intern
• Akku Dummy für Flaschenhalter
• 500Wh Akku extern am Oberrohr, optional

Kombiniert werden können am Pmax mit BDB

– 625 Wh Intern mit 500 Wh extern = 1125 Wh
– 500 Wh Intern (per Adapter) mit 500 Wh extern = 1000 Wh

Gewichte Akkus:

Bosch 500 Wh extern: 2,57 kg
Bosch 625 Wh intern: 3,5 kg 

Gewicht Rapcon Pmax Mk1 Bike Grösse L:
ca. 23,4 kg mit 625 Wh Akku und Akku Flaschenhalter Adapter sowie schweren Eddy Current Reifen 29″ x 2.6″ vorne (1.3 kg) und Eddy Current 27.5″ x 2.8″ hinten (1.4 kg) inkl. Schläuchen

FAQ: 

Q: Kann man aussuchen welcher Akku zuerst leergefahren wird?
A: Nein, das wäre zwar manchmal durchaus praktisch, ist aber von Bosch leider so nicht vorgesehen. Sind die beiden Akkus im System vor Fahrtantritt unterschiedlich geladen, gleicht das System zuerst den stärkeren Akku an den schwächeren an, bis beide auf gleicher Kapazität sind (das lässt sich schön am Kiox verfolgen)

Q: Kann man auch nur mit dem 500er am Oberrohr fahren?
A: Ja, dann muss aber am Unterrohr ein Akkudeckel per Tape befestigt werden, auch kein Problem

Touren die mit dem Bosch Dual Battery System möglich sind:
z:B die „Sella Ronda ohne Seilbahnen“, erschienen im eMTB Magazin 05/2020.

Fotos Pmax MK1:

Der Hinterbau des Bikes (Sitzstreben, Kettenstreben) wurden mit 3M Schutz abgedeckt (teilweise auf den Bildern sichtbar).

Simplon Pmax Mk1 im Test:

SIMPLON Rapcon Pmax im Test – Super vielseitig dank FOX E-Live Valve

https://www.velomotion.de/magazin/2019/07/simplon-rapcon-pmax-carbon-e-fully-bosch-cx/

https://www.mountainbike-magazin.de/e-mtb/neue-e-mountainbikes-fuer-2020-aus-oesterreich/

https://pedelec-elektro-fahrrad.de/news/simplon-rapcon-pmax-vielleicht-das-technisch-am-weitesten-entwickelte-e-mtb/266640/

https://ebike-mtb.com/simplon-rapcon-pmax/

https://ebike-mtb.com/en/new-simplon-rapcon-pmax-2020/

https://www.ride.ch/de/news/test-simplon-rapcon-pmax-2020-wenn-uphill-flow-auf-downhill-spass-trifft

SIMPLON Rapcon Pmax in Review

Preise 2023 für Rapcon Pmax MK1 GX AXS Eagle / RockShox etc (vom Simplon.com Konfigurator):

https://www.simplon.com/de/Bikes/E-Mountainbikes/Rapcon-Pmax_b_13151

Konfigurator direkt: https://www.simplon.com/de/bike-configurator/13151/basic/1173008

Alle Infos und Fotos © Christophmalin.com 2023

It is important to note, that we Astrophotographers obviously have a different understanding of low light than DJI. What DJI and many Drone Pilots understand as „Low Light“ are in fact images or Videos of terribly light polluted Cityscapes. It is not very difficult to capture Images above such light polluted Landscapes – there’s plenty of light from below and on the illuminated Horizon, and the Drone Sensors are in a way optimized for such endeavors.

But the absence of Light Pollution and real Low Light is, where it get’s demanding for DJI’s drones. It is then under Dark Skies the Photographer at the Controls needs to know his trade and the Sensors and attached Lenses capabilities, plus best practice in Post Production.

In general the same principles which apply to Landscape Astrophotography and Lowlight Outdoor Photography are valid for Drone Landscape Astrophotography. Means you have to plan your Shots meticulously and accordingly in advance, and also you do need to have all the necessary permits organized pre capturing.

Why, by the way, would you go to such lengths to try to capture the Milky Way / Night Sky with a Drone? As with Day imaging, the Drone allows for simply much more freedom on compositing the Shot. While newer DJI Drones can do Hyperlapses, what fascinates me most are Night Sky Panoramas. But these take a while when exposing each shot with say 5 Seconds. Patience is needed and good Batteries. 

A great recommended reading regarding Landscape Astrophotography is the amazing eBook „Nightscapes and Timelapses“ as well as the „Backyard Astronomer’s Guide“ by legendary Canadian TWAN Astrophotographer Alan Dyer.

If you have read trough these (e)Books, no Drone Landscape Astrophotography shot will be impossible for you anymore… Because a DJI Drone Camera is basically not much different from a DSLR or MDSLR only that it is limited by maximum exposure to 8 Seconds, it doesn’t allow for accurate Live View pre-focusing on Stars, and it is fixed on a Gimbal. 

Regardless which DJI Drone you use, the High ISO DNGs RAW Stills of these Drones are prone to strong Image Noise. Tipp: I use the excellent Noise X Terminator for removing most of the Noise, and it is so far the only AI Filter Plugin I found which does not introduce blotchiness while reducing noise. This exact „Grain“ Noise Blotchiness, where there are new kind of Blotch Patterns created is a problem DXO’s and Topaz‘ Denoise AI’s do have – especially with DJI DNGs but it can happen with High ISO Astrophotography Images.

See a great test comparison of current Noise Reduction Apps by TWAN Astrophotographer Alan Dyer. 

So below is a summary of what I found over the Years regarding the DJI Lineup and Landscape Astrophotography with it’s Drones.

1. Mavic 2

7 Years ago the Mavic 2 with it’s 12 MP 1/2.3“ CMOS Sensor gave me the means to start the first experiments and tests with Drone Landscape Astrophotography, and to get used with flying at night or moonlit landscapes. Also what to look out for in Post Pro with Lightroom and Photoshop. The learning curve was steep.

However, Images were always super noisy even at ISO 1600, Dynamic Range was meh, regardless if there was a full moon (just compare the full moon images with the P4P’s). But it was a start. Stars were getting visible with a Drone. Amazing.

2. Phantom 4 Pro

Well, a Sony 1″ Sensor with a f2.8-11 24 mm Lens in the Phantom Series!

That would change things a bit, and I kind of discarded the Mavic 2 and flew the P4P many times at night to document Light Pollution, while I flew it during the Day for some of my best Mountainbike Videos. Solid as a rock, extremely capable, decent flight times – this Drone especially in it’s Phantom 4 Pro iteration is a true Legend, and I still fly it today occasionally for the fun of it.

And still after all those years the P4P is a decent Performer at Night.

It’s Exposure sweet Spot is around 1 Sec / ISO 1600. Going higher like for example 3 Sec / ISO 3200 is possible, the Gimbal can handle it usually, but increases Noise dramatically. So in fact a Full Moon is your friend where you can do those 1 Sec, ISO 1600 Exposures and all is good. It’s when P4P Images really start to shine.

Then my next goal was: Capture the Milky Way with a Drone!

During 20th of May, 2018, while shooting Astro, I finally managed to capture the Milky Way with the P4P on the Canary Island of Santa Cruz de La Palma!

You need to know, that the lesser a Sensor is equipped for long exposure photography, the brighter the Milky Way needs to be. So: La Palma, a beautiful volcanic Island within the Canary Island Chain with the best Night Sky and the brightest unspoiled Milky Way in the World (aside the ESO Observatories in Chile) provided the perfect Opportunity to nail that shot. I’ve been to La Palma 33 Times for Astrophotography and Biking and some occasional Drone Flying so I know every Stone on that Island by Name and the best Locations.

A year or so later, I managed to capture the Milky Way again at Tyrol. Which is never easy with lot’s of Light Pollution at the In-Valley.

So, considering it’s small 1″ Sensor and the age of the Drone, the P4P did a remarkable Job capturing the Milky Way.

3. Mavic Air 2 S

Comparable to the Phantom 4 Pro the Air 2S sports a 1″ Sensor as well, but with a 22 mm fixed 2.8 Aperture  Wideangle Lens instead of the 24 mm of the P4P.

While the Air 2S is for sure an improvement over the P4P regarding form factor, size, portability, flight times, active tracking, daylight Video quality etc, it’s Night imaging capabilities were not what I had expected.

Which is interesting, since from a modernized Hardware and probably a bit improved Sensor and Imaging engine you would expect that, but compared to the bigger glass of the P4P and it’s excellent Sony Sensor the Air 2S seems to not be able to keep up at Night. If you directly compare the size of the rather huge Lenses of the Phantom 4 Pro vs the smaller ones on the Air 2S this might explain the Performance differences a bit.

However, the Pictures speak for themselves…

During warmer temperatures the Air 2S showed some brutal greenish amp glow, and you really need to forget about Milky Way photographs with that Drone, see Image 25.

While during the Day this Drone is amazing with it’s 22 mm Lens and a great Video quality, in the night the Air 2S is kind of blind like a Mole. And I really pushed the Air 2S to it’s limits there, but it didn’t improve.

It get’s a bit better with Moonlight shots, where the Sweet Spot of the Air 2S is around 1 Sec / ISO 1600 and one can even try a Hyperlapse or Panoramas. But that’s it then.

4. DJI Inspire with X5s and MFT Lenses (Panasonic, Olympus etc)

DJI’s remarkable Inspire 2 with it’s X5s Camera is a great Filmtool with CinemaDNG RAW and ProRes Capabilities and you can even pull great Stills frames from CNDG RAW Footage. But combined with fast f1.7 or f2 MFT lenses, the X5s is a relatively good Low Light stills camera (ok, the Lenses are soft at f1.7, f1.8 etc but hey). Relatively…, since on the one hand the MFT 4/3″ Sensor has a quite useable range of max. ISO 3200 for Stills, while in reality you are always better off with ISO 1600. And you should definitely avoid ISO 6400, which is only the last straw on the rarest emergency needs, as the Noise with ISO 6400 is brutal.

And on the other hand DJI has never put much effort on Firmware Optimization for the X5s‘ low light capabilities in general and stills in peculiar.

I am sure the X5s could do a much more remarkable job if DJI would have done it’s homework there. Gimbal drift is BTW always an issue on the X5s and long exposures.

Note that all the shots below are rather lucky shots. A shot where the Gimbal does not drift is usually achieved 1 out of 10, and with drift I mean like „Micro Drift„.

See here „Inspire 2 X5s Gimbal Drift: https://vimeo.com/314486365

This shows on the display if the gimbal has moved during a Shot with the Stars or Constellation start position – prior to release, then the Stars position after the Shot is finished. If the position of the Stars has changed after the End of the Exposure you had Micro Drift – repeat until you get a few lucky shots where the Stars remain at the same position during start and end of Exposure.

5 to 8 Seconds Exposure are a relatively long time during which the Drone hovers and the Gimbal tries to counterbalance the heck out of it. And windstill nights are mandatory too, since the I2 is known to bounce around when hovering, and Wind adds to this bouncing making it even harder for the Gimbal not to drift and shake.

I love to capture Orion at quiet Winter Nights. First Image is a stitch of 5 single images.  

Here’s a crop, and with the X5s you can even see the Orion Nebula’s glow. Wow!

This is how the same Scenery in Image 27 and 29 looked like captured with the Nikon Z 6. I would say – the X5s is quite good! 

A few Images from a remarkable Session with the Moon Setting above the Stubai Alps.

I love to do Panoramas with the Inspire 2 and the X5s from time to time. I use Litchi for that, stitching is done with Lightroom (faster) or Ptgui (slower, more powerful).

Note that as with all other DJI drones, no one at DJI Fly App programming Departement ever thinks about the option to give the Gimbal some defined time to pause and stabilize between Long exposures. While the Inspire 2 in theory can hover and let the Gimbal rotate for Panoramas, all the smaller drones reorientate themselves, with no time to rest and stabilize the gimbal between moves and the following long exposure. Duh! 

X5s and the Milky Way!

The Astrophotographer I am, I have of course tried to capture the Milky Way with the X5s. And it worked actually quite well for Tyrol Skies.

I didn’t manage to bring the I2 to La Palma yet, but if I do one day, then Holy Smokes!

Image 57 to 59 are from a larger Set I did at the Kaunertaler Glacier while documenting the Sky for a Tyrol Environmental Agency Starlight Project. It was a perfectly Windstill night with extremely strong Green Airglow, and these are all Lucky Shots out of like 50 with Gimbal Drift or other Drone vibration/movement Shake. Again: The X5s is quite capable of low light if used well and the Conditions are excellent.

Back home I managed two good X5s Milky Way Shots at the Alpenhauptkamm and one Early Bird shot at Dawn above Innsbruck.

And here’s a side by side Shot of DJI X5s vs Nikon Z 6. Well, summer humidity and Sky transparency on the Austrian Sky often makes it hard for the X5s to keep up, and even the Z 6 struggles there. 

5. DJI Inspire with X7 and DL Lenses

I have tested and filmed with the DJI Inspire 2 and the X7 and it’s DL Lenses plus the Laowa 9mm/f2.8 Zero D lens a lot. The X7 Camera and CinemaDNG RAW and ProRes RAW tops the X5s combo Video wise, and is an outstanding Super-35 camera. One would think at Night too. Well, yes and no!

First the X5s physically outperforms the X7 due to the faster f1.7/1.8 lenses, and second DJI in Reality has not really bothered with the Low Light Imaging capabilities of the X7. Is it any wonder when DJI engineers live and work in light-polluted Chinese cities? No. Do they even know how mesmerizing a Dark Sky area looks and feels like? How beautiful and mind changing a brilliant Milky Way looks like? I hope they do at some point in the future, so that we see more DJI Sensors with great low light capabilities.  

Until then, the I2’s Firmware is at a real Dark Sky trying hard and succeeds at not using any of that S-35 Sensors Low Light capabilities. They must be hidden somewhere, or regularly get lost on the Way to the I2’s imaging Engine. With Moonlight it’s a bit better, but still…

Note that Image 77 is captured at the same spot like with the X5s and Image 57 before. 

Moonlight like with Image 61 and Light Pollution by Cities like with Image 78 is kind of the only way to let the X7 capture at least some stills that are worth it and not that super noisy. Image 78 was captured with the 50 mm DL, a very lucky shot, which actually shows the potential that Lens would have for Astro. Image 79 was done with the tack sharp 16 mm DL and the I2 rested on the Ground (it was too windy that Night). However, with f2.8 the often underrated DL Prime Lenses which are of excellent Quality, never stand much chance at Night to the various available f1.7 and upward lenses of the X5s although these are softer wide open.

Maybe, we see a f1.7 or even a f1.4 DL Lens sometimes in the Future? Who knows what the Lens Gods at DJI are occupied with. 

I tried another Session the year after and here the X7 was a bit better combined with Light Pollution in the Valley. See the comparison Images for Noise, so you get an idea what you are dealing with under such conditions.

Note that on Images 92 to 97 the little purple Tint around Orion Nebula (M42, NGC 1976) that is usually visible with the X5s, is not resolved by the X7. It is just not there in the DNGs at RAW level. 

6. Mavic 3 Classic

I have only recently started to test the Mavic 3 Classic with it’s MFT 4/3″ Sensor. The results are quite reasonable considering that the sensor is blocked from picking up a lot of starlight by a lens with a fixed f2.8 aperture. The M3 Classic’s Sensor does the best with the Situation. Noticeable at all images is a faint Green Amp Glow that get’s more prominent when the DNG is post processed more aggressively.

Also the Imaging Engine introduces greenish and purple-ish blotches into the Image. This could be better, and it would be nice if DJI would work on this. 

However, the imaging engine of the M3 Classic is 4 years younger than the X5s‘, and that said the Classics Camera is an improvement anyway, as it is embedded within a relatively compact chassis. Plus the M3 Classic has a very good flight time with around 30 minutes. And stable Hovering is the trademark of the Mavic 3 Series. That helps immensely with pulling off long exposure shots at Night from a hovering Drone.

Dark Sky Samples

Note the green and purple-ish Color blotches on Image 108. The Panorama itself is remarkable, but there are images within the stitch where the Drone / Gimbal shook after rotating the Drone. That’s why a pause like 3-4 secs to stabilize between these Nightshots would be so important.    

So far the M3 Classic has shown a good useable ISO 3200, fairly useable ISO 6400, and stabilizes well up to 8 Seconds exposure. Sweet spot is ISO 3200 with 3.2 to 5 Seconds exposure. But it fights against the f2.8 limit of the lens, which can be clearly seen. I am sure this Iteration of the M 4/3″ Sensor could do so much more at Night combined with a fast aperture like f1.7.

7. Panorama VRs

With Moonlight and short Exposure Times it is even possible to do VR’s. Here are a few:

Inspire 2 / X5s: https://christophmalin.com/VR/X5s_Brenner/index.html

A very RAW one done with I2 and X5s: https://christophmalin.com/VR/Innsbruck_Inspire/index.html

Phantom 4 Pro Panos here: https://christophmalin.com/VR/P4P_Brenner/index.html and here: https://christophmalin.com/VR/Brenner_Panorama_Neu/index.html

And probably the most beautiful I have ever done with P4P at La Palma: https://christophmalin.com/VR/pano_mendo_web/output/index.html

8. The future of Drone Landscape Astrophotography?

First a Conclusio: The X5s is far from been pushed from the Dark Sky Imaging Throne by the Mavic 3 Classic, and still offers much more night vision capabilities with fast, interchangeable lenses. But of course it is aging. The X7 is a awesome S-35 Sensor based Camera with DL Prime Lenses and one from Laowa, and it shoots amazing Stills until a bit after Sunset.  

The Inspire 2 itself is a professional, but tricky Drone to fly at times to say the least – but we Inspire Pilots still love the Beast. However, it also lacks proper battery runtime and the Remotes with their Android based Crystal Clear Screens are slow and old (while great to use at low temps due to dedicated batteries). Signal Transmission is often a problem too, even with the Patch Antenna. So flying the I2 at night always needs meticulous preparation and planning.

What are the Alternatives? 

If I could get my hands on Sony’s AirPeak Drone for testing, I’d be tempted to mount a FX Sensor A7S III with super fast f1.4 lenses to that Drone’s Gimbal and see what it could do at low light. Of course a lot with stills. Full Frame, fast aperture Lenses, High ISO – the A7S III is a night Vision device.

BUT with all the problems (Range, connectivity stability, Gimbal vibrations etc) reported from AirPeak users around the globe, it is obviously advisable to wait for the AirPeak MK2 before I do that. Compared to the AirPeak the Inspire 2 is a ready to go, super fast set up and relatively stable Low Light imaging platform with known bugs and quirks. And for that it is hard to beat.   

As well, let’s also see what the new Inspire 3 will bring us regarding real low light capabilities. Hopefully CinemaDNG RAW and ProRes RAW too, and maybe a refreshed X5s? Who knows. For me now, after around 7 Years of Drone Landscape Astrophotography it is remarkable how far technology has evolved. The Inspire 2 with a X5s and even a Mavic 3 Classic are great tools for me to document Light Pollution or Dark Sky Areas around the World.

However, a Nightsky Photographer & Friend asked me upon pre-reading this compilation: „You pushed all these units beyond what they are designed to do. Is that good?“ Well, yes and no. As written, regarding „Low Light“ all these Drones are optimized for Light Polluted Cityscapes capturing. That’s a kind of „Low Light“ which always makes me laugh (and wince at the same time). But we need to push current Equipment to it’s limits to see what it is capable of.

And while the DJI Inspire with the X5s is actually meant to film a bit into after Sunset where things do get really noisy soon still, a side effect is that it can capture quite nice real „Low Light“ DNG stills – but  you only see that if you try it out. Then for example the Inspire and the X5s camera and it’s ability to mount relatively fast f1.7/f1.8 MFT lenses starts to shine, and then the X5s is the Benchmark in this compilation. And this from a aging MFT Drone camera.

For example the Panasonic MDSLR GH-6 and it’s sensor is 4 years ahead, and it shows. But nevertheless. I never would have thought that I could capture the Milky Way with a Drone camera like the X5s…

And now as the DJI I3 is on the Horizon, and maybe Sony fixes the heap of Problems the Air Peak has…, converts it into a reliable unit with long flight times, a not-vibrating gimbal, great remote range etc one could say: The future of Drone Landscape Astrophotography could be promising!

I hope you enjoyed my little compilation here. I will add more info to this page over time, so check back regularly.

Best regards,

Christoph Malin